Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loft)
Famous throughout the world, the Sugar Loaf arises abruptly out of Rio’s
harbor. For climbers, it is more than the postcard symbol of the city.
Rather, it is a classic climb that in addition to its challenge, affords
splendid vistas. The Sugar Loaf is home to more than 50 routes on all
of its four wall faces. The grades go from 5.4
to 5.13a and from 2 to 12 pitches long.
One of the most beautiful lines, and certainly the one with most ascents, is the Classic Line on the west face. It links sections of 3 different routes (Italianos, Cavalo Louco and Secundo) to the top of Sugar Loaf. This line is basically a 5.8 route with a 5.10c crux.
Sugar Loaf's north face has some of the most beautiful big walls in
town: Contra-Pino is a two-day long 5.10c A3
classic route, and the Ibis Wall is 5.10c A1
with a five-star ledge on which to bivouac.. A fun way to complete this
route is to do the first part of the wal, the easiest section, until
the ledge, bivy, and descend the next morning.
The
south face of Sugar Loaf offers a series of short aid routes. At a very
overhanging formation known as The Roofs—grades range between
A2 and A4—there
are also some very pleasant two- to three- pitch routes on the lower
section of this face, grading between 5.7 and
5.11b. The best section of the S face is known as The Totem:
two main lines and many other variations lead to the summit after 9
pitches ranging 5.11b to 5.12a.
The Costão at the east face is basically a hike to the top. A rope may be needed for a short section graded 5.6, but it's common for many climbers to free solo this section.
Famous throughout the world, the Sugar Loaf arises abruptly out of Rio’s
harbor. For climbers, it is more than the postcard symbol of the city.
Rather, it is a classic climb that in addition to its challenge, affords
splendid vistas. The Sugar Loaf is home to more than 50 routes on all
of its four wall faces. The grades go from 5.4
to 5.13a and from 2 to 12 pitches long.One of the most beautiful lines, and certainly the one with most ascents, is the Classic Line on the west face. It links sections of 3 different routes (Italianos, Cavalo Louco and Secundo) to the top of Sugar Loaf. This line is basically a 5.8 route with a 5.10c crux.
Sugar Loaf's north face has some of the most beautiful big walls in
town: Contra-Pino is a two-day long 5.10c A3
classic route, and the Ibis Wall is 5.10c A1
with a five-star ledge on which to bivouac.. A fun way to complete this
route is to do the first part of the wal, the easiest section, until
the ledge, bivy, and descend the next morning.The
south face of Sugar Loaf offers a series of short aid routes. At a very
overhanging formation known as The Roofs—grades range between
A2 and A4—there
are also some very pleasant two- to three- pitch routes on the lower
section of this face, grading between 5.7 and
5.11b. The best section of the S face is known as The Totem:
two main lines and many other variations lead to the summit after 9
pitches ranging 5.11b to 5.12a.The Costão at the east face is basically a hike to the top. A rope may be needed for a short section graded 5.6, but it's common for many climbers to free solo this section.
